The
Gift of Eloquence
(May
2 - May 21, 1999)
You can click on "photos" to
get directly to the photo page. Please disregard any
dates on the photos as Diane's camera seemed
to have a mind of its own as far as inserting a date on the photos she
took.
Hi everyone. Diane and I are in Dublin, Ireland. We arrived
on Sunday morning, May 2 and drove to the Hotel Conrad. Our first
task
was to find a Hertz place to exchange the car. It was metal on
metal on the brakes all the way in from the airport and three weeks of
that wasn't
going to work. No one on my team was interested in driving a car
here given that they drive opposite of the way we drive in the
USA. So I will end up doing the driving to and from work every
day. That's fine with me because I like to drive. We
usually have to get a car with a standard transmission for expense
purposes, but I convinced my manager that it would be safer for us to
get a car with an automatic transmission this time. She
agreed. Whew. I haven't driven a standard on the opposite
side of the road for many years and didn't want to even attempt it this
time. There is a Hertz place close to the hotel, so we
went over there to get another car and we got lucky. We had this
awful Mitsubishi small car and they gave us an upgrade to a nice
Volvo. It has been about five years since I have driven on the
other side of the road and it took several days to get used to
it. The judgment driving from the right side of the car takes
more concentration when one is used to driving from the left side, and
on the opposite side of the road,
especially in tight spaces.
After taking a nap, we met some colleagues, who also arrived on Sunday,
for dinner. We headed across St. Stephen's Green park over to the
well-known and busy Grafton Street area, then to the also well-known
Temple Bar for dinner. Not having had time to read any of the
Fodor's about Dublin, I was looking for a restaurant named Temple
Bar. Only after I asked Diane if she had any idea where this
place
was did I find out that we were looking for an AREA named Temple Bar,
not a restaurant by that name (although there is one pub named Temple
Bar). We ended up at Fitzer's Cafe where I had some great lamb
and
BEER. Diane doesn't much care for lamb, so I don't get to
eat it at home. My plan was to eat lots of lamb while in Ireland.
I'm really not a big beer drinker because I don't care for the
carbonation in canned or bottled beer. However, draft beer,
especially draft beer in Germany, England and, now, Ireland is
marvelous. SMOOOOOOTH. I decided on a local lager,
Kilkenny, and it was great. Another night last week I had
Murphy's, a dark beer. I wanted to try Guinness, but found out
not every pub/restaurant serves Guinness. Actually, I found out
that not every restaurant even serves beer due to licensing rules and
costs. It turns out that Murphy's and Beamish
dark beers are brewed down in Cork, but Guinness is most popular and
recognizable. I was expecting the beer to be served 'warm' (it's
not actually all that warm) as they do in Germany and England, but was
surprised to have it served cold. Other than the night I had to
have wine due to no beer available, it's pretty easy to put down two
pints each dinner. I may not be able to buckle up my belt by the
time I leave here. But it's oh so good. ;-)
The first night out I really had a hankering for Irish Stew and a
beer. As we hunted for a restaurant, I asked one guy if they
served Irish Stew and he said it may be hard to find it since it's a
winter dish, not spring and summer. That was disappointing, but
c'est la vie. Then a couple of nights later, our team of seven,
plus two spouses, plus two bosses split up into smaller groups for
dinner and Diane and I went off on our own to walk around a bit before
dinner. We were walking past this restaurant, The Shack, and
we noticed the sign outside said IRISH STEW. I immediately
started
drooling and slobbering and licking my chops for the stew and beer I
was about to partake in. SIGH....NO BEER! How could I be so
lucky? I did enjoy the Irish Stew.
A few nights later, we ate a place that was recommended, but hard to
get into called Gallagher's Boxty Restaurant. I called to ask if
they would book us in for a group of 11, although I was told they
didn't book. I told them it was the birthday of someone on my
team, Joe from Scotland, so they booked us for 7:30. They
had Irish Stew AND beer, but 'boxty' and 'champ' were the draws here,
so I had to pass on the stew and have a boxty. Boxty is a potato
pancake filled with 'whatever' - lamb, beef, chicken, mushrooms,
veggies, etc. I had the lamb boxty and it was DELICIOUS.
Diane had the chicken boxty as a meal and a starter of Murphy's Stew,
which I helped her with. A colleague who is a vegetarian had the
veggie boxty and said it was great. I asked if they did anything
special for birthdays and they said they would do a small pastry with
candles. So at the end of the meal, I had my video camera ready
when I saw the waitress coming out with the pastry and then she totally
faked me out and shut the lights. We were in the downstairs
section with NO windows. Therefore, NO video, just sound.
How could I be so lucky? But I think Joe's face lit up the room
since he didn't expect it.
Another night we ate at Davy Byrne's, which was very informal, more
like a pub. We sat eight people around three of those small round
tables one usually sees in a small bar, more like snack tables.
The highlight here was that the night we split up, several folks ended
up here for dinner. We almost didn't get in, but one of the
guy's, Tom (a character), went in to see if we could get seated and the
same waitress was there and remembered him. Not only did she
remember him, but she remembered what they were drinking from the
previous night and, even more incredible, she remembered that
Rufus is a vegetarian and liked green beans. When his meal came
out with cauliflower, she told him she would go get him some green
beans. This waitress was also very personable. Now that's
service. Needless to say, she was well tipped.
Our team slimmed down by three people on Saturday as the bosses left,
including one spouse. We picked up another spouse, Patrick's
wife, who flew in from California on Sunday, so in week #2 we are seven
team members and two spouses. This team is different than other
team's I have been with and not at all like my normal team (who I hope
to rejoin in July). No one wanted to take a tour on Saturday,
other than Joe (who took off with some friends) and Joan (who has
relatives here and went to visit them). The others just hung
around Dublin. Diane sees enough to do such that she could take a
tour every day. We decided to do a day-long trip to Cork, Blarney
(including the Blarney Castle and, yes, the Blarney Stone), and
Killarney. It was a train-bus-train tour that started at 7:30 AM
and got back to Dublin at 10 PM.
The first leg was the train to Cork where we were met by a bus to take
us to Blarney a few miles away. Diane is a 'Casey' and the
O'Caseys are from Cork. As mentioned earlier, Cork is also home
to the Murphy's and Beamish breweries. It is also a harbor
town. The weather was cool and threatening, but no rain
yet. We got to the Blarney Castle and had about an hour to look
around and visit. Here are some words about the legend pertaining
to the Blarney Stone, as borrowed from a souvenir book we bought:
"The stone was reputed to have been that mentioned in the Bible as
'Jacob's pillow' and was supposed to have been brought to Ireland by
Jeremiah the Prophet. It was more likely to have been brought
back during the Crusades which legend applies also to the Stone of
Scone now at Westminster Abbey. Another tale was that McCarthy
(of the McCarthys of Muskerry) was given the story of the stone by an
old woman he saved from drowning. This lady turned out to be a
witch. As a reward, she told him the secret of a stone in the
castle which would give THE GIFT OF ELOQUENCE in return for a
kiss. Wherever the truth lies, tradition has it that once kissed
the stone bestows the gift of eloquence."
Diane and I now have the gift of eloquence. ;-)
After Blarney, we spent some time in the Blarney Woolen Mill where
Diane could spend some of her hard earned Irish pounds. She lives
for these opportunities and well-deserved they are. :-)
Then we went back to the train station to catch the train to Killarney,
about two hours away. We got to Killarney at 3:25 PM and were met
by a tour bus who took us to see the lakes of Killarney (there are
three of them), Torc Waterfall and then to the Muskross House and
Gardens. Unfortunately, it was now raining on and off and wasn't
as pleasant as the first half of the day. I'm not up to walking
through gardens in the rain, so Diane and I went to the cafe to get
some coffee, tea, pastry, and apple pie. And I wonder why I'm
putting on weight. Then, of course, it was into the gift
shop. Why do they call these things 'gift shops'? I have
yet to have anyone give me a gift in one of them. ;-)
It was then time to go back to the train station to get the train back
to Dublin, a 4-hour trip with a train switch in Mallow.
Considering the weather, it was a pretty good day. Sunny and warm
would have been nicer.
Now for some first impressions. I like Dublin and have enjoyed
walking around a bit and to dinner every night, although I haven't seen
much of it yet. St. Patrick's Cathedral, of the Church of
Ireland, was closed one evening when we went over that way. St
Stephen's Green park is manicured with blooming flowers and
waterfalls. There are always lots of people in the park. As
for the countryside we saw from the train, the terrain is rugged and
VERY green and, even from a distance, one can tell the grass is very
thick. Lots of cows, not as many sheep as I would have expected,
but we've only seen sites to the south so far. Maybe one can see
more by car, but we decided on a tour and leave the driving to
others. The roads are narrow in the countryside and it's the
other side of the road and I'm sure I wouldn't see as much as Diane
since I'd be concentrating on driving. Also, it would have been a
very tiring day to do what we did and do it by car. We hope to
take another tour next weekend out to the western coast.
Sunday morning was mass and then to Bewley's for cappuccino, tea,
pastry, and scones. I haven't had scones since my last trip to
England back in 1994. I love scones, so I was pleasantly
surprised that they are big in Ireland, too. For those who aren't
familiar with scones, they are like biscuits with raisins in
them. It was a rainy day, so we hung around the hotel after
breakfast. Diane wrote in her diary and I worked on this
note. In early afternoon I got a real treat. You all know
how much I love Japan. Well, there is a Japanese
station here that broadcasts Tokyo's NHK. I also knew that a sumo
basho (tournament) was starting today (they have them six times a year,
every other month) and I love to watch sumo. From Ireland, we are
about nine hours behind Tokyo, so no chance to watch the sumo
live. But, lo and behold, the rebroadcast was on from 1-3 PM
Ireland time. What a great way to spend part of a rainy
afternoon. :-)
After the sumo, Diane and I went to Trinity College, sort of the
Harvard of Ireland, to see the Book of Kells. Trinity College was
founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I to 'civilize' Dublin. It's
Ireland's oldest and most famous college and is spread over 40 acres
not too far from the hotel we are in. The Book of Kells is stored
in Trinity College and is more than 1000 years old. We took the
tour in the library to see the display and the book. We learned
that the book contains lavishly decorated copy, in Latin, of the four
gospels. It was probably produced in the early 9th century by
monks at Kells. The book was thought lost in 1007 when the
Vikings raided Ireland and took the jeweled cover of the book, but left
the manuscript. The book was sent to Dublin in 1653 and to
Trinity College is 1661. The work that went into writing the book
must have been incredible. The writing was done with a quill pen
and the artwork is magnificent. All done by hand. Only two
of the four books of the gospel are displayed, and only two pages of
each, at any time. The book is kept in a very dark room with dim
lights illuminating the glass case in which the book resides. The
story of the book is explained in displays in other rooms you go
through before getting to the Book of Kells room. Then you go
upstairs to the Long Room in the Old Library. The room is about
195 feet high, 213 feet long, 42 feet wide and houses 200,000 of
Trinity College's 3 million books.
I'd like to tell you a few things about where I'm working here.
We drive about 30 minutes to the northwest of Dublin to work. It
was
pasture land that has been turned into an industrial park. The
IBM portion is referred to as a technology campus and is here because
the tax laws are favorable to companies. There are several
divisions represented here and it is an 'emerging' campus given that
ground was broken only in late 1996 and new buildings are still going
up. Since it is a new development here, IBM has many assignees
here from many different locations to train the local hires as to how
to run the
businesses here. One of the things I happen to love about world
travel is the accents that I hear when foreigners speak English.
Well, I am getting my fill of it here in Ireland. I hear people
speaking who are from France (my favorite language to listen to),
Italy, Germany, Hungary,
Spain, and Ireland, all in one place. I have not seen anyone from
Japan yet. This is truly an international working environment on
this campus.
Until next week, take care.
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