Johnnie
Fox's Pub
(May
2 - May 21, 1999)
You can click on "photos"
to
get directly to the photo page. Please disregard any dates on the
photos as Diane's camera seemed to have a mind of its own as far as
inserting a date on the photos she took.
I forgot to mention a couple of things from week one, so I'll start
with that for this week's travelogue. After Diane and I arrived
in Dublin and picked up the car, we got some directions to the hotel
and a map and headed out. We had no problem getting to the city
limits, but then the fun started. It seems that the streets in
Dublin change names unexpectedly and OFTEN. It took us about a
half hour driving around the city looking for the street for the
hotel. We became very familiar with the O'Connell Bridge because
we got back to the intersection three times before we finally headed in
the direction of
the hotel. I didn't feel so bad the next day when the guy on my
team from Scotland told me that he drove around Dublin for nearly an
hour trying to get a bearing. He took the ferry over and had his
own car and was driving around at night, which made it harder to spot
street signs, if that is what you can call them. It's not like
you see big signs across the road giving you the name of the street, or
even signs on posts on the corners. Nope. The street signs
are nothing more than little plaques embedded into the corners of the
buildings, and they aren't on every corner. If you want a
challenge, go to Dublin and drive in a car with the steering wheel
where the passenger seat is,
drive on the other side of the road on narrow streets, and try to find
a place to which you've never been. It was interesting to say the
least.
And that brings me to the O'Connell Bridge. I had found a nice
Ireland web site, www.ireland.com, before leaving the US and I showed
it to Diane. If you check out http//:www.ireland.com/weather/cam.htm
you will see a
'live' shot. (NOTE: I see that this
live cam site isn't work. However, there are other web cams in Dublin
if the reader is inclined to check them out via a search ending. I have
decided to leave the text in place as it was part of our trip at the
time.) So one day Diane called me at work and
told me she was at the bridge. She was calling from a phone near
the Guinness building diagonally across from the corner in the
picture. After I told her which corner to go to, she calls me
again and asks if I could see her. She told me there was a bus
turning in front of her, so I refreshed the screen and, bingo, there
was the bus. It was a little harder to spot her because the
camera is a wide shot, not a closeup. Once I determined that was
a phone booth down the street from the green signs, I was able to see
her. Then I asked her to go to the corner of the bridge and I
refreshed again and was able to see her. Another day last week
Diane and Sharon (Patrick's wife) called from the bridge so Patrick and
I could see them on the internet. Then on Saturday morning, Diane
and I went over to the bridge around 12:30 PM and I called my daughter
in Atlanta and had her 3-way us with my son in NY. They booted up
their systems and found us on the corner. My son saved the photos
and you can check them out if you want. I'll attach them
here. Pretty slick even if you can't see a closeup.
Also from last week, I should have mentioned that there are some
distinguished alumni of Trinity College: Jonathan Swift, Bram
Stoker.
Once again we had great dinners all last week. It ranged from 6-9
folks every night. I mentioned in last week's note that Tom on
our team is a character. He has this repertoire of 1-liners that
seem to come out of nowhere and fit whatever is being discussed at the
time. You never know when a 'Tomism' will come spewing
out.
Like when he was riding in Joe's car, which is kept rather cool.
So Tom nonchalantly asks Joe when his car is next due for
service. Joe tells him and Tom responds "Tell them that the freon
works great". But last week he outdid himself one evening at
dinner. I know you probably had to have been there, but try to
picture this. First, Tom's a 'mature' guy (you know, past middle
age - like me), Irish, mild-mannered, funny. So here we are
chatting and we got off talking about someone who had died. Tom
happens to say matter-of-factly "Have you ever noticed in the
obituaries that people die in alphabetical order?". There were
six of us at dinner and it probably took all of 3-4 minutes for
everyone to stop laughing and drying eyes. And the fact that Tom
never cracks a smile when he says these things makes it all the
funnier. He does keep things lively and makes for fun dinners.
Saturday was targeted to be spent in Dublin as I haven't seen much of
the city other than what we see to and from dinner. Diane and I
started out at Bewley's Cafe for a full breakfast, which was
great. Then we did the O'Connell Bridge thing before starting out
for the afternoon. Our plan was to do Dublinia, Christ Church
Cathedral, the Dublin Viking Experience, St. Patrick's Cathedral.
We wanted to start with the Viking Experience, but the next tour was 45
minutes away. So we decided to go to Dublinia and Christ Church a
few
blocks away and come back. Dublinia is a display and exhibition
of old Dublin and it depicts the history of Dublin via scenes set up as
one winds through the passages in the building. There is an
accompanying cassette player to explain the scenes. I guess it's
not well-known that the Vikings from Denmark and Norway actually took
over lots of Ireland at one time. Several cities that still exist
today, such as Limerick, were Viking cities. The displays also
included information about the potato famine and the black
plague. I like stuff like this and it was done very well.
We crossed over the street to Christ Church Cathedral via the
connecting covered stone bridge. The church was started in 1030
and built up over many years, including major restorations in each
century since that time. This is a Protestant church, belonging
to the Church of Ireland, a member of the Anglican/Episcopal
Communion. At one time it belonged to the Benedictines and then
Augustinians. When Henry VIII broke from Rome, the Irish Church
had to follow suit. As cathedrals go, it was nice enough, but I
did not find it particularly impressive, certainly not like Winchester
or Salisbury in England, or Notre Dame in Paris, or the Duomo in
Florence. It was much more impressive from the outside than from
the inside.
After we finished touring the cathedral, we talked about whether we
should go back to the Viking exhibit and St. Patrick's or change plans
and go to Bray, which a seaside town south of Dublin. Diane and
Sharon had been there and liked the views and the town. It
sounded like something I didn't want to miss and it was a nice day
Saturday, so we decided to do go there. Unfortunately, we were
probably 30 minutes walk from the closest DART train station and we had
a time limit since we had to be back at the hotel to go to Johnnie
Fox's Pub for dinner and show. So we flagged down a taxi and took
that to the Tara DART station. DART is a commuter line that
services the north and south suburbs. The ride took about 30
minutes. At one stop, a woman and her husband boarded with what
was obviously three of their grandchildren. They sat near us and
the little girl was two and a real cutie. Very quiet at first as
we struck up a conversation with the woman about the area. She
was very knowledgeable and willing to chat. I took some video of
the kids and showed it to them in the viewfinder. The little girl
started to warm up and, by the time we got to Bray, she was starting to
be a chatterbox.
Bray started about 800 years ago on the Dargle River. A church
stood on the high ground, the Brae. In 1173, Walter de
Riddlesford, a Norman Knight, was granted the manor of Bray. The
town had a castle, a church, and a mill. For about 400 years,
Bray remained a small village. In the late 1700s, Bray became a
natural stopping point between Wexford and Dublin. When the
railway came to Bray, it developed into a modern town and seaside
resort. There is lots of Victorian and Georgian architecture to
be seen.
The scenery was certainly much more pleasant than what I saw last week
on the train ride to Cork. We finally broke out of Dublin and
rode along the coast. The woman on the train told us it was the
Irish Sea near Dublin and St. George's Channel near Bray. There
was a lot of beach front with a wide concrete walkway. So we
walked to the end towards a pretty looking hill on which was a golf
course. Then we turned around and headed back on the sidewalk
along which were lots of B&Bs. What was kind of amazing to me
was how people adapt to the weather. It was nice, but very chilly
- to me, but then it doesn't take much for me to feel cold.
People were laying out on the grass with short sleeve shirts and even
had shoes off. We even saw a group on the beach, if you can call
it that since it was all stones. They were on blankets, short
sleeve shirts, short pants for some. Brrrrrrrrrrr!
It was time to return to Dublin and get ready to go to JOHNNIE FOX's
PUB.
We had reservations for dinner at 8 PM and the show at 9:30
PM. This place came highly recommended by an ex-colleague in
Atlanta who spent part of her honeymoon a few years ago in Dublin and
found this place. What a great evening it was. The pub is
located about 35 minutes drive up into the Wicklow Mountains outside of
Dublin. It was certainly a pub-like atmosphere and it was
packed. The bar area was packed, the restaurant outside of the
show area was packed, and the room where the show is held (also a
restaurant) was packed. And it must be packed every night because
it was hard to get reservations. We had tried to get the entire
crew of 11 of us together the prior week, but it didn't work out and we
canceled the reservations. Too bad because 11 people would have
been a blast. It ended up Rufus, Patrick and Sharon, and Diane
and me. The band was four guys doing traditional Irish music and
they
were great. Bass guitar, rhythm guitar, mandolin, fiddle.
They played a long set and then took a break. That's when the
dancers came out, three men, three women. That's about all the
small stage would allow. They were all very good dancers.
Diane and I had taken the kids/grandkids to see Riverdance when it came
through Atlanta last year and I LOVE Riverdance. This show was
like a min-Riverdance, but up close. And they even used some of
the Riverdance music. The place seemed to be a favorite with the
locals, too. Thanks Cristy, that was a great tip to suggest
that we go to Johnnie Fox's.
Sunday we booked a half-day bus tour to Powerscourt Gardens and
Glendalough (pronounced glendalock). The tour was with Mary
Gibbons Tours and our tour guide just happened to be Mary
Gibbons. The first stop was the gardens. On the way there
Mary, who was very knowledgeable, told us about the history of the
Irish language and its decline in the country, the history behind the
potato famine and black plague, the history of religion in Ireland, and
much more. The gardens were some 47 acres of gorgeous grounds
once owned by Irish aristocracy. There are nine main parts to the
gardens, but the highlights were:
1. Italian Gardens - a terraced garden laid out during the 1840s
and took more than 100 men 12 years to complete. There are
statues, hedges, flowers, manicured lawn areas, trees.
2. Japanese Garden - built in 1908. It contained a grotto
built in the late 18th century from petrified sphagnum found on the
banks of the River Dargle.
3. Winged Horses - imported from Berlin in 1869.
4. Triton Lake - the fountain in the center of the lake was based
on the Piazza Barberini in Rome.
5. Walled Gardens - lots of perennials.
There was this great looking golf course across the road that made me
drool. I would have loved to have had time to play golf over
here. We saw several course on our tours.
After Powerscourt, we drove to Glendalough, which is a monastic complex
in a remote valley in the Wicklow mountains. It was founded by
St. Kevin in the 6th century and was a center of learning and
contemplation until the 12th century. Mary explained how the
paganism of the early inhabitants merged with Christianity. It
was pretty interesting. The Celtic cross that has the circle
overlaying the crossbeams is actually representative of the sun god the
pagans worshipped. We had some time to just wander around the
grounds to take in the beauty and solitude of the place. The
buildings are all in ruins,
but the site still attracts lots of people. I finally found out
on this trip what the prominent yellow flowering bush is that we have
seen all over Ireland. It's gorse. As soon as she said the
word I knew that I had heard it before, but didn't know it was this
bush. Sort of like the briar patch of Ireland because the bush
has long spiny thorns. It is used mostly as a hedge row and you
can see how it separates parcels of land and used along the road.
It is also in huge patches of land on the side of the hills and from a
distance is quite pretty.
The scenery that I saw this past weekend was more like what I had
expected to see in Ireland. Last week it must have been the route
the train takes that didn't let me see the countryside I was
expecting. I saw more of the hills and pastures and sheep and
towns that I had pictured about Ireland.
One more thing about Dublin that comes to mind is that, although we
feel safe walking around the city, there is a lot of security to be
seen. Heavy metal doors on store fronts, lots of barbed wire and
sharp bladed security fences around some apartment complexes and office
space. I asked about that and was told that burglary is a crime
that happens fairly often. One doesn't see a lot of police
roaming around with guns. The 'Garda' are around, but I wouldn't
say prevalent on every street corner. Some are on horseback, some
on dirt bike type motorcycles, and some in cars.
Well, that's it for week #2. We are in our final week and head
home on Friday. I'll wrap up final thoughts about Ireland next
week.
Until next time.
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