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We got up real early on Friday morning to catch a
7:18 AM train out of Gare de Lyon. The trip to Zurich involved a
connection in Lausanne. From Paris to Lausanne, we would travel
on a TGV, France's high speed train. What a great smooth ride it
is. Feels like you're gliding, and it's relatively quiet.
We got to the station in plenty of time, had some breakfast and bought
stuff to take with us on the train for the four hour ride. In
Lausanne, which is home for Olympic headquarters, we had a one hour
wait
for the connection to Zurich. As we pulled out of Lausanne, we
noticed a huge lake way down below us. I knew Lake Geneva was a
big lake, but I didn't think we were anywhere near Geneva. I
asked the conductor which lake that was and he said it had the same
name as the city of diplomats. I was surprised. I asked him
where Geneva was and he pointed the way. I never did care for
geography much when I was in school. That hasn't been true since
1993 when I started traveling a lot. Now I want to know where
everything is.
The views from the train were almost breathtaking as we made our way
further into Switzerland. I'm sure all three of us were agape at
what we were looking at. The lake, the hills, the mountains off
in the distance. Everything was so green, and the houses along
the way all had flower boxes outside the windows with bright, usually
red, flowers. Mom commented many times in Bavaria, and again in
Switzerland, about the colorful flowers and how much she liked how they
looked. I could tell she was really enjoying this train ride.
We arrived in Zurich and headed off to the car rental place to pick up
our car. The guy I spoke to about renting a car said it was just
outside the train station. It wasn't. It was a few blocks
away, so we had to deal with the luggage. Not knowing the area
and how the streets ran, I didn't want to try to figure out a route
back to the station. We managed to
get everything, most of which was on wheels, to the rental place,
picked up our VW Passatt (nice car) and off we were to Peter and Yoko's
place. Peter's schedule had changed and he was in Sao Paolo,
Brazil for
the week. He was due to arrive home on Saturday morning. We
had dinner with Yoko and Naoko and settled in for the evening.
Peter and Yoko live in Wollerau (pronounced 'Vollerau'), which is about
30 minutes drive from
Zurich, up along Zurichsee (Lake Zurich). They live in what we
would call a townhouse. There are four attached units in their
building, which is up on a hill. The house has four floors, one
of which is a basement. It's the top floor that offers the
magnificent view of Lake Zurich. There is a small deck on that
floor and you can see over the housetops and trees down below to see
the lake and surrounding hills. On a very clear day, you can see
the mountains off in the distance. It was warm and quiet and
peaceful as we sat out on the deck just taking it all in.
Mom was totally enjoying Naoko. She is now 16 months old and
learning both Japanese and Swiss German, and is she ever a cutie.
She wasn't too sure about all these strange faces who were all speaking
a strange language. But she was a great mimicker and would repeat
some English words we said to her, like when I told her she was
amazing, and the next thing she says is 'amazing'.
Yoko told us that Peter was due into Zurich very early and would stop
to pick up fresh bread and pastries for breakfast. He was
actually home before we got up, except for mom, who gets up with the
chickens. Diane can sleep until noon, and I'm somewhere in
between. When I heard his voice, I decided it was time to get
up. It was great to see him again. We had lots to talk
about. Mom had met Peter before. He and I attended a
conference in Orlando back in the Fall of 1995. We were working
an assignment in the states, so I suggested to Peter that he come home
with me on the Friday before the week of the conference and we'd drive
Diane's 'toy' (a Nissan 240SX convertible) down to Orlando. Mom
lives in
Ocala, so I suggested that we come stay the weekend after the
conference in Ocala and then drive back to Atlanta on Sunday and back
to the work location on Monday. As I mentioned before, mom has an
open house.
The plan for Saturday was to take mom to see the Alps from up
high. We finished breakfast and headed out for Mt. Rigi.
Diane and I had been there several times, but it offers a great view of
the mountains, lakes, and the city of Lucerne. There are a couple
of places where one can board the Rigi-bahn, Vitznau and Goldnau.
For this trip, we opted
for Goldnau. So up we went into the clouds. Yes,
unfortunately, it was an overcast day with low hanging clouds.
There were still a lot of people going up. The Rigi-bahn takes
you most of the way up, but there
is still some walking to be done to reach the hotel/restaurant, and
even more to reach the summit.
It was time for some lunch, so we did that first. It was one of
the few times we were able to have bratwurst. After lunch, we
decided to go up to the top, although it would not be possible to see
anything. There were two paths to the summit and they are marked
by characters on a pole. One character is of a young climber and
the other of an old Swiss gentleman with a beard and cane. I'm
sure you can guess which path we took to the top. We then headed
back towards the hotel and could hear some oompah music. There
was a band set up outside the restaurant playing some local music, so
we watched for a while.
We had planned to walk down to a lower station to reboard the Rigi-bahn
to Goldnau. I thought that would not be a problem for mom since
she seemed to have a lot of energy. However, it was here that she
met her match. The path down, although paved, was pretty steep
and was difficult for her. I told her to keep her weight back
walk slowly. At one point, while I was stopped to take some
video, I turned around to see her almost RUNNING down the hill to a
flat area. She was on the grass and I could see that it would
soon turn to dirt and stones. My heart stopped for a second as I
could see her going down face forward and coming up with broken bones
and cuts and bruises. By the time I saw her, she was almost at
the bottom of the section and I just held my breath. Much to my
surprise, this 76 year old woman was rather nimble and, when she
reached the bottom, she kind of flittered over to the paved section and
was sort of bouncing on her toes. She actually looked light
footed. It was then that I remembered that mom liked to dance
when she was younger. She grew up in the swing era and liked to
do the peabody and swing dances. Also, given that my grandmother
was from what became Czechoslovakia, and that mom is one of the older
of eight children, there were lots of 'Polish' weddings to go to and
she was a good polka dancer in her time. I imagine that
nimbleness helped her in this situation. But it was a tense few
seconds for me. She told me she was having trouble keeping
gravity from taking control, so I ended up holding her hand for the
remainder of the descent to the station below us.
As we waited for the Rigi-bahn to arrive, I heard the familiar sound of
cow bells. I wanted mom to see this because I thought she'd get a
kick of seeing it for real, as opposed to what she has seen in
movies. There were several cows behind the station, so we went
out there to take a look, and Peter and Yoko took Naoko down the stairs
closer to the pasture fence. Then we headed down to
Goldnau. There were some folks on the train that were all dressed
in similar traditional garb and were having a good old time singing
with interlocked arms and swaying back and forth as we made our
descent. This is the kind of stuff mom likes to see. As we
approached the station, Peter, Yoko, and I noticed a small field with
some horses in it. It was sort of on the way back to the parking
lot, so we went to see what it was all about. A few minutes
later, an entire wedding party came up the hill from the train station,
bride in nice gown (pretty, too), groom in a tux. She went over
to say hello to all the people who were mounted on the horses (about 10
of them), all of which had a white ribbon on their harness (or whatever
that thing is called around the horse's head). We figured that
she must belong to a riding club and this was their tribute to her
wedding day. It was nice.
Peter and Yoko took us to a restaurant high up on a hill behind where
they live which afforded a view of hills, Lake Zurich, mountains.
What a great spot for a restaurant. It was like in the middle of
nowhere. Certainly not one that you would find unless you
happened to stumble onto it. We had a great meal and mom was able
to get her Manhattan in Switzerland, albeit a scotch Manhattan.
Ugh.
On Sunday, we went to Einsiedeln to go to the high mass in the kloster
in town. This is where Peter went to school as a boy and young
man. It's sort of like an academy he said. Einsiedeln has
been a center for pilgrimages since 946 AD. It was founded as a
Benedictine monastery during the time of Charlemagne by a monk who
chose the site to allow him to pray in solitude. A statue
referred to as the Black Madonna resides in the monastery, and has been
there for more than a thousand years. Pope John Paul II has
visited the monastery. As described in Fodor's:
"The abbess of Zurich gave him an image of the Virgin, for which he
built a little chapel, and Meinrad (the monk) lived in peace, fed - the
story goes - by two ravens who brought him supplies. When he was
murdered by brigands seeking treasure, the ravens followed the thieves
to Zurich and shrieked over their heads until they were arrested.
A monastery was built over Meinrad's grave. When it was completed
the Bishop of Konstanz was invited to consecrate it, but as he began
the ceremony, a voice was heard crying out in the chapel three times,
'Brother, desist: God himself has consecrated this building.' A papal
bull acknowledged the miracle and promise special indulgence to
pilgrims.
Through the ages the monastery of Einsiedeln has been destroyed many
times by fire, but always the Black Madonna has been saved. When
Napoleon's armies plundered the church, hoping to carry off the sacred
image, it had already been taken to the Tirol in Austria for
safekeeping. Today the Madonna is housed in a black marble chapel
just inside the west entrance to the church. When seen from a
distance its color appears to be a rich bronze, not black, and there is
something quaint and gentle about the figure despite its jeweled
splendor."
The church itself is late Baroque and is beautiful. Lots of gold
and pastels inside. Unfortunately, it's one of the places in
which no photography of any kind is allowed. One must by the
books if one wants pictures of the church.
The mass was in German and Latin and I counted at
least 14 priests
concelebrating the mass. It was quite a spectacle. There
were at least 20 who formed the choir. They didn't chant, but
sang hymns with organ background. The church was packed, so this
high mass is a big deal for the town. It was a quite beautiful
mass and took me back to my youth when I sang in Latin in a boys
choir. Mom also commented that it
reminded her of her time growing up in NYC, including the first nine
years of my life before we moved out to Long Island.
After mass, we met Peter, Yoko, and Naoko for breakfast across the
street from the church. There were lots of places to choose from
as this is a tourist town. We ate at a restaurant that had a nice
buffet of fresh breads, jams, rolls, etc and then we ordered eggs
cooked to order. It was a beautiful day, so we walked into the
grounds behind the church. The property owned by the kloster is
magnificent and is a big part of the town. The views from the
hill behind the monastery were breathtaking. There were several
groups of magnificent horses in various pastures, both on the lower
levels and up on the hill. They were very friendly and came over
to the fence when people were around.
It was time to head back to Peter's house, so we just kind of slowly
made our way towards the parking lot. On the way, there were
shops to be visited by mom and Diane. There was also a large
golden statue of the Virgin in the plaza in front of the church.
Around the base, water trickles from 14 spouts. Peter told me,
and it is also described in travel books, that it is supposed to bring
one good luck if one drinks from all of the spouts in succession.
So who am I to doubt that? Of course I drank from all 14
spouts. Stay tuned to see if any good luck comes my way.
Peter told me that when he was young and attending school there, the
students would drink from the spouts prior to exams. He said that
a student would put a rubber band on a spout so he would know from
which spout he drank first. You see what's coming, right?
The other students would follow the student doing the drinking and put
rubber bands on all the spouts so he would have no idea from which
spout he first drank. Sounds sort of like short sheeting a
roommate's bed when I was in school.
So back we went to Peter and Yoko's place for some relaxing time and
dinner. We had a great dinner cooked by Yoko along with some
great wine from Peter's wine cellar. It was getting to be dusk
and time for one more view of the lake from the top floor of their
house. The lights were coming on in the town across the lake and
there was a ferry out on the lake that was all lit up. Directly
below the house, a local train was going by, all lit up inside, but
with very few passengers that evening. It was warm and sitting
there looking out onto the lake was incredibly relaxing.
On Monday morning, we got up and had breakfast, and then it was time to
say our good byes and head to Zurich for the train ride back to
Stuttgart. Although our visit was a short one, it was a little
sad to say good bye this time. Mom really enjoyed herself over
the weekend. She loves little kids and was quite taken with
Naoko. I think she wanted to stay longer, plus she knew that her
vacation in Europe was drawing to a close.
We got into Zurich with no problems, I dropped Diane and mom off at the
train station with the luggage, and I went to return the car. The train
arrived and it was back to Stuttgart to repack our luggage for the trip
back to the USA on Tuesday morning. The train ride was only about
2 1/2 hours. We picked up a car at the station and headed back to
the Marriott in Sindelfingen. Christa was there to greet us upon
our return. She asked mom how her trip was and mom proceeded to
tell her all about it. None of us really felt like walking out to
a restaurant, so we decided to eat our last meal of the vacation in the
hotel. Besides, mom knew she could get a Manhattan there.
After dinner, we stopped by the front desk to say good bye to Christa
and other staff. Then it was up to the rooms to pack for the trip.
Our flight on Tuesday was at 11:30 AM. We ate breakfast in the
hotel, loaded the car, said good bye to the morning staff, and then we
were off to the flughafen (airport). Check-in was smooth and
allowed time for more shopping at the airport. Diane wanted to
get some candy to bring back for her work colleagues. Then we
went to the business class lounge and waited until it was time to board.
The flight home was great. We sat window, aisle, aisle. Mom
loved it. She not only made her first trip out of the USA, she
made her first flight in business class. Needless to say, when
they offered champagne, mom said 'sure'. It was funny to see the
flight attendants doting on her. There was the usual "is this
your sister?" comments. Mom likes to nosh, so it seemed like she
was always eating something on the way home. During the final
snack before landing, one of the flight attendants joked that my
'little sister has a big
appetite'. One flight attendant thought mom reminded her of her
grandmother. This was kind of spooky because she asked mom if she
was from Pennsylvania, which she was. She was born near
Bethlehem, PA. Turns out this flight attendant's family came from
there. She later told mom that she shed a couple of tears back in
the galley because mom so closely resembled her grandmother whom she
was very close to. Mom ate it up.
We arrived back in Atlanta on time, got our luggage, went through
customs, and headed to our house. Vacation was over.
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