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Well, all that anticipation last week paid off and
Frank and I had a great visit over a meal of shabushabu. There
were nine of us last
Tuesday evening: FRANK (I'm sure you all may have guessed that
this would be the title
of this week's travelogue), his son Brian, Diane, me, Merle, Linda, Art
(it was
his last night in Tokyo and he loves shabushabu), and the newlywed
young
auditors Michelle and Chip. They are both out of LSU and new to
IBM within
the past couple of years. They knew each other at LSU and both
ended up
joining IBM (LSU has a good auditing curriculum) and both ended up on
the AP (Asia
Pacific) team. Well, love bloomed and they got married recently
in
Australia. Michelle has taken a leave of absence from work for
now to travel with Chip
around Asia. Good decision on her part. ;-) Well,
shabushabu
was great. Brian and Frank enjoyed the evening as we ate much
more beef than is allowed, I'm
sure, and drank our fair share of beer and sake. Art had a
digital
camera with him, so here are a couple of photos at my favorite dining
experience at
ShabuZen.
Let me tell you something about Frank and our
childhood together.
Frank and I were boyhood friends. We met each other way back in
5th
grade. We both came from humble, but strong, families. Both
of our dads worked hard
to move us out to Long Island and out of the city. We played
together in our
younger years, but moved into different social circles through high
school. Yet
there was still a bond between us, probably because of our earlier
years in
elementary school and weekly religious instruction at St. James.
Both of us were athletic and that also
helped.
Frank was a wrestler and I was a baseball player. I remember
yelling at those
wrestling matches until I was hoarse. What a great spectator
sport. You can
really get wrapped up in the matches, especially when it's your school
chums that are on
the mat either about to pin someone or about to get pinned.
I ended up moving away from Long Island and up to the Hudson Valley
(Newburgh) the day I graduated since my folks had already moved upstate
several
months earlier. I stayed behind with a neighbor so I could finish
out my
senior year, plus I didn't want to miss my final season on the
baseball team (we
made it to the LI playoffs that year, too, but didn't win). As
things
would have it, Frank and I lost touch until the 20 year reunion.
After that, we
traded Christmas cards but didn't see each other for the next 15
years.
Then, as fate would have it, he sent me his email address in the
Christmas card of
1995. I find moments like this strange, weird, coincidence,
whatever you would
like to call it, because my dad got cancer in January of 1996 and Frank
became
a very important part of my support team that year until my dad died in
October. We even got the opportunity to visit once in Chicago
when we both found
ourselves in the city at the same time. Then Frank got an
assignment in
Atlanta for a year in 1998. We only got to see each other a
couple of times
that year because I had re-joined the audit team and was again
traveling 100% and
only home weekends. He also went home to Massachusetts on
weekends, so
we didn't see too much of each other that year.
If you have ever read the Celestine Prophecy, the writer says that
there is no such thing as coincidence. Everything that happens
does so
because it is intended to happen. If there is meaning to such
events, then it
is up to us to find it. I don't know if there is any meaning to
both Frank and I
being in Japan at the same time, but to be able to visit with each
other in
Japan is a bit incredible. You need to understand that this is
actually
twice that there has been a 'coincidence' with Frank. The first
was supplying me
with his email address only weeks before I got the horrible news that
my dad had
cancer. The second is this meeting in Japan. You see, I was
scheduled to be
working with the Singapore team. Then, out of the blue, my
manager decides
that he needed my skills in Japan. It just happened that I would
be there at the
same time Frank and his family would be here on vacation.
Weird?
Coincidence? Good fortune? Who knows? Who
cares? It was great to see
him again and in Japan of all places.
Frank and Brian spent Wednesday and Thursday together, so Diane and I
didn't see
him again until Friday after Brian left to go back to NYC. On
Wednesday evenings from 6:30 - 8:00 PM at the New Otani, there is a
reception to which the
IBM audit teams are always welcomed. I didn't go to the reception
the
week before last and Okano-san, the guest relations guy who runs it,
asked Merle
where was Emond-san (they do know some of us by name). Merle said
I had a
previous commitment and Okano-san made Merle promise that he would
bring me the following week, which would be my last week in the New
Otani. So
Diane and I went and mingled with the folks and had some snacks.
They also
have an open bar with wine, beer, liquor, soft drinks. We met
three guys who
worked for IBM, two from Austin and one from Poughkeepsie. Diane
and I were
getting ready to leave for dinner at about 7:30 when Okano-san rang his
little bell,
which he does when he wants to say something. He starts talking
about one
of the hotel's customers who is probably there for the last time and I
go 'uh
oh'. He then proceeds to call me up and his female assistant
gives me a wrapped
single red rose. Then he asks me to say something. So Merle
and
the other IBMers, nice guys that they are, start yelling 'speech,
speech'. So I
figure the best thing to say is that the New Otani was 'home' for me
whenever I came to
Japan, which was for 23 weeks on 5 trips, and it was the only hotel to
stay at when one visits Tokyo. Needless to say, that was the
right thing to
say. ;-) I thought it was very nice of the hotel to do such
recognition. I
even enjoyed it.
Peter, this one's for you (remember all those 'small world' occurrences
when we traveled together from 93-96?). After that little gig, I
went
back to chat with the three other IBMers and the guy from Poughkeepsie,
Tony Fiore,
says to me "Do you know Charlie Emond". I told him
that
Charlie is my brother. He goes on to say how he and Charlie
worked together many many years ago
in
Sterling Forest and had just recently bumped into Charlie at the
Raleigh airport as Charlie was heading up to NY for vacation.
They ended
up on the same flight. It truly is a small world and, the older
one gets,
the smaller the world seems to get.
I worked the July 4th holiday, so I took last Friday as the
replacement. Frank, Diane, and I spent the day together and went
to a park and
gardens in Shinjuku. We spent a few hours walking around and
talking and
reminiscing about old times. Truly a great day. Frank
wasn't feeling
well, so we headed back to the hotel a bit early because he wanted to
rest up since we had
planned a full day in Kamakura on Saturday. He had checked out of
the New
Otani and moved over to the Fairmont Hotel.
On Saturday we met at the Shimbashi station to get a JR (Japan
Railways) train to Kamakura. One can do a lot of walking in
Kamakura and we ended
up doing just that. We actually got off at Kita-Kamakura to visit
the
Engakuji Temple. There are actually some 18 temples on the site,
so it's pretty
big. The Hall of the Holy Relics of Buddha is located here and is
one of Japan's
national treasures. From there we walked across the tracks to the
Tokeiji
Temple, also known as the Divorce Temple founded in 1285. In
early Japan, the
husband could get a divorce by sending the wife away. There was
no way for a
wife to get a divorce regardless of the treatment she received from her
husband. However, if she could run away and get to the temple,
she could become a nun for
three years and then be declared divorced.
We then walked about 15-20 minutes to Kamakura to visit the Tsurugaoka
Hachimangu Shrine. Diane and I have usually done this walk in the
reverse
order from the way we did it this time (i.e., starting at Kamakura
Station).
This shrine is at the end of a long street that starts near the
station.
It is four lanes and divided by a tree-shaded sidewalk up the middle of
the
street. Lots of shops on both sides. Once inside the
grounds of the shrine, there
are 62 steps up to the shrine. On the left side of the stairs is
a 700 year
old ginkgo tree.
We continued on down the street to Kamakura station where we found a
restaurant to have lunch. There is a large plaza outside the
station from
which one can take a bus to many places in Kamakura. We took a
bus to the
Daibutsu (Big Buddha). The statue is made of bronze and is 37
feet tall.
The Amida Buddha sits cross-legged and smiles down on his
audience. The statue was
cast in 1292, three centuries before Europeans reached Japan. The
other
Daibutsu is located in Nara and is housed in a temple. This one
in Kamakura
used to be housed in a wooden temple, but it was washed away in 1495 in
a tidal
wave.
As we made our way to the train station for the private Edoden line, we
stopped at the Hasedera Temple (also referred to as the Hase Kannon
Temple). On the grounds are many small stone images of
Jizobosatsu, which represents
the bodhisattva who stand between this life and the next. At
Hasedera, these small statues represent stillborn children and now
includes aborted
children. Mothers who have lost children dedicate these statues
to their unborn
children and many have scarves or hats on them prepared by the
mothers.
One gets a strange feeling when viewing these statues because there are
so many of
them. We headed back to Kamakura to connect with the JR train
back to
Shimbashi.
Back at the hotel Diane and I watched the sumo telecast and then headed
out to Belle Vie to eat yakitori one more time. We bumped into
Merle
coming into the hotel. He said Linda was over at Belle Vie, so we
went over there
and they joined us for dinner.
Yoyogi Park is back! Well, sort of. You may remember from
an earlier travelogue that I reminisced about how Yoyogi Park used to
shut down
the main street on Sunday afternoons and some 40-50 bands would get
there early
to claim their spot and play from about 1-4 PM. A new local
government
shut down the practice and Yoyogi became sort of a ghost town on
Sundays. This
past Sunday, Frank, Diane, and I did the usual Sunday routine of
visiting the Meiji
Jingu Shrine, Yoyogi Park, and the Harajuku and Omotesando area (i.e.,
the
Oriental Bazaar). The usual activity on the plaza between the
Harajuku
Station and the torii for the shrine was going on with mostly teenage
girls done up in outlandish costumes and makeup. Some would pose
with the
tourists, both gaijin and Japanese.
We made our way into Meiji Jingu and we got to see two wedding
parties. Both brides were dressed in kimonos with hoods.
It's always great to
witness a traditional Japanese wedding party. The brides are
usually very
pretty and look great with their white faces and beautiful white
wedding
kimono. The family and friends follow the Shinto monks along the
pathway that
crosses in front of the shrine. One of the monks (or servant, not
sure)
walks along side the bride and holds a large umbrella over her to shade
her from the sun
(it really was a beautiful weekend, albeit very hot and humid).
Almost all the men were dressed in black suits, which seems to be the
standard formal
attire at weddings, even western style weddings that we see in the New
Otani. Most of the women were wearing black kimonos. The
party walks to an area
where bleacher seats and some chairs are set up for the formal
photos.
Attendants fuss with the bride and groom, but mostly with the bride, to
make sure
every crease in her kimono is perfect and that her makeup is
perfect.
Only then can the photographers take their pictures.
After we came out of Meiji Jingu, we went over to Yoyogi Park. We
noticed right away there were more people than usual due to people
selling used
goods along the sidewalk. Then we spotted a band setting up,
which was
encouraging. They even had a sign saying they would be playing at
1:30, 2:30,
3:30. We continued on towards the main part of the park and saw
another band
setting up. At the main area, there was a huge flea market going
on that
covered the entire area from street to stage area. Diane and I
got our normal
Sunday fair at Yoyogi, fried noodles and a coke. Frank wandered
around in the
flea market and then all three of us walked around for a while before
heading over
to the Oriental Bazaar. We saw a few other bands setting up, and
one was
just finishing a song in the distance. None were on the
street.
They were inside the park on a very wide walkway where there used to be
lots of food
vendors.
As we walked back along the sidewalk towards Hirajuku Station, the band
that was setting up as we came in was now in full swing. They had
a
small audience in front of the band that brought back many memories of
the Yoyogi Park
of 1993-94. This audience consisted of about a dozen teenage
girls
dressed as though they were going on dates, high heels and all, and an
old guy
bouncing to the music. There's a whole other story about him, so
hang
on. I said to Diane that I would bet that some, or all, of these
girls were the same ones that were the teeny boppers we used to see in
front of the bands in 93-94.
At that time, we guessed that the girls were probably 9-12 years old
and these girls
all looked to be more in the 15-17 range. The band was pretty
good
and consisted of four teenage boys (2 guitars, drummer, lead
singer). The girls
knew the hand moves and did them in unison and in time with the music.
Now, you ask, what's the deal with the old guy? I was taking
video from behind him and across the band so I could get them and the
girls, and Frank,
who was on the other side, in the frame. Diane moved over to the
other
side and then I did, too. The old guy saw us with the cameras and
seemed to be
signaling that he wanted us to take his picture. So we did.
Then I could
see him start to come around the girls over to our side and I said, "uh
oh". We
thought he wanted his picture taken close up. NOT! He
wanted to take
DIANE's picture, but he wasn't satisfied with her just posing in front
of the
band. He pulled her over to where the girls were doing their
dancing and motioned for
Diane to dance. SO SHE DID! ;-) He went back around
to the
other side and took her picture. I have all this on video and it
should be a riot when we
watch it. Diane got into it and had a fun time with it. He
met her about
half way around the semi-circle in front of the band and gave Diane
back her camera and
said something to her. Unfortunately, it was in Japanese and she
had
no idea what he said. Watching Frank enjoy the sites brought back
many
memories of when Peter and I frequented Yoyogi Park on Sunday
afternoons and enjoyed
watching the sites and also watching the tourists watching the
sites. You
could almost pick out the folks who were experiencing it for the first
time.
Great time, great fun. Great day.
Sunday evening was our last meal in Tokyo and, for all I know, my last
meal ever in Tokyo. We contacted our friends Tad and Teruko to
see if
they would like to join us for the same dining experience we had during
our March
trip here. At the time, I was sure it was called Monja, but
apparently
I mis-understood something. First, it is spelled 'monnjya', at
least that is how it is spelled on the sign that says 'Tskishima
Monnjya Association'
right near the exit from the subway to Tskishima. Apparently,
there is no
name for the dining experience. It is just a number of courses of
different
dishes. I got the names of the courses right and we had the same
courses this
time: two types of monnjya (one noodle, one seafood with rice
cakes), teppanyaki,
okonomiyaki, yakisoba, and anzumake (dessert). There were eight
of us for
dinner: Tad & Teruko, Merle & Linda, Frank & Mutsuko,
and me &
Diane. I would, however, suggest that it is better done in cool
weather, as when we were here in
March, than in the summer. It involves cooking on a hot grill and
it was
hot and muggy outside and not air conditioned very well inside.
But it
was still a great evening and it was lots of fun.
After dinner, we headed back to the subway station and, once again, I
have video of Tad and Teruko waving good-bye to us as we descended the
stairs into the subway. I think that this was my last trip to
Japan, but I
thought the same in March. Who knows, I guess as long as I'm
employed there
is always a chance that something will come up to bring me back to
Japan once
again. I guess it's true that one should never say never.
Our departure day was different this time than past trips. The
flight was delayed about four hours and didn't take off until 8:30 PM
instead of
the scheduled 4:20 PM. I was sort of annoyed that Delta didn't
contact me to inform me of the delay. However, when we got home,
there were two
messages on our machine where Delta tried to reach us to inform us of
the
delay. So it was actually 'user error' since I forgot to call
Delta to give them a local
number at the New Otani. So we sat in the Business Class
lounge.
It is a nice lounge and even had work areas where one could hook up a
PC. I was able
to connect via a local number and then I was a happy camper and the
time went by
quickly. Diane likes to read, so she got a lot of her book
read.
There's one more thing I want to mention and that was at the
airport. I have never seen so many 747s in one place as I do at
Narita. When they
pushed back a plane, the 4-5 people that guide the plane out onto the
tarmac move
back towards the building and then line up facing the plane as it
begins to
taxi to the runway. They wave to the plane and then bow.
This was a
standard procedure and was pretty cool. Can you even imagine any
of the
workers at a USA airport lining up to wave to a plane much less bow to
it?
That would be a site, I'm sure. Anyway, it was a nice touch.
I didn't get to Singapore, but this was sure one great trip to
Tokyo. Next up is Europe for five weeks in August. There
are a few trips left
before the well dries up. Then it'll be time to see the USA at
ground level.
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